I enjoy the bridge catbird seat several times a week. From where I sit, I have the opportunity to observe many very effective bridge players, not only across the table, but to the right and left as well. At the risk of demystifying bridge, I am going to reveal to you five traits that they all have in common. (Are you surprised I could find five?)
If you think I am going to tell you to count down the entire hand, or flawlessly manage the dummy, well, it is much more basic than that. The good news is that developing these habits can be accomplished by ordinary bridge players like you and me. Here are five constructive things you can work on to produce immediate results:
1. As declarer, always analyze the opening lead against the convention card lead table and often you will know exactly what cards the opening leader has in the suit. It is easier to play well if you know the location of all the key cards! Even if you think you know the answer, stop a moment and ask opening leader's partner what their leads are. Many club player's are notoriously negligent in filling out the opening lead information on the convention card and by simply looking at the card you may get misinformation. Do not rely on relief from the director if the lead does not correspond to the card as marked and you lost a trick relying on it. In a club game, such relief is often not granted for a variety of reasons. Now that I have mentioned this issue, conference with your partners and make sure your convention card conforms to your partnership's lead understandings. If you do stuff like lead Ace from Ace/King, or lead top of nothing in suit contracts, you have some marking to do.
2. As declarer, when you see what appears to be a signal, ask the that opponent's partner about their primary signals. Again, do not rely on the convention card. The standard here is, of course, attitude, but some better players give count in the suit. Occasionally, both count and attitude may be played upside-down, exactly reverse of the way you and I would play it. Some players give count in no trump and attitude in suit contracts. Asking the question if more efficient and reliable than stopping play and reviewing the card, which may not be correctly marked in the first place.
3. Watch the opponent's discards, particularly the first discard. It may be attitude, but many players play the first discard as odd/even (odd I like the suit and even I don't), and a few play Lavinthal. If they simply say "Lavinthal", ask them to explain it if you are not certain. Again,don't rely on the card, ask!
4. Highly effective players when they are defending don’t sit and stare at their own cards or the dummy, they watch the cards that partner plays. Make it a habit.
5. Whether declaring or defending, remember the auction and bring the implications of the auction into your plan for the play or defense of the hand. How many players do you think can't repeat accurately the auction after 2 rounds of play? Make it a habit to not be among that number.
If as a matter of routine you do all of these things, you undoubtedly are very effective and you can leave this post. I am still wondering why it is so hard for me to routinely so five 5 simple things on every hand.
Analyzing opening leads is the toughest. Good opening lead analysis comes from lots of experience. If you play long enough, it just becomes a matter of recognition. If you don’t have years to gain that experience, then applying some process is necessary. If you want a comprehensive analysis go to Easley Blackwood’s book on Opening Leads. That is a good reference, but too much to read from cover to cover. More will be added about opening leads in a subsequent post, but if you will review the convention card "standard leads", you can from that source develop a manageable approach to “sniffing out" lead analysis.
Friday, January 26, 2007
Monday, January 15, 2007
Check List for Splinters
This being primarily an intermediate/novice bridge blog, this post on "splinter" bids will be a basics refresher. A splinter is a game force supporting response to an opening bid that, in addition to solid support, shows a singleton or void in responder's hand. The splinter is shown by making a three level jump in the suit in which you have shortness. Thus 1 spade/4 clubs would be a splinter bid showing 4 spades and a single or void in clubs. Having said that, even in the basic version, there are understandings that you need to have with your partner. Here are some points to go over:
1. While some partnerships splinter in all four suits as well as no trump, your life will be simpler if you limit your splinter bids to responses to major suits.
3. The support requirement for a major suit splinter is 4 or more cards in the major suit. The main thrust of splinters is to inform opener of your shortness so that he will know that he can trump losers from his hand in your short suit. Since opener may have 3 or more losers in the suit that need to be ruffed, a minimum of 4 trump is required.
2. Most authors recommend a hand in the range of 11-14 points. This is a nice guideline, but in reality what you really need is a hand that you want to play in game against a minimum opener. In making that analysis you should take into account you that already have a 9 card fit and favorable distribution (the single or void). Since we are not going to play this hand in no trump, 25-26 high card points are not required. Shape and fit will be more telling, and I would venture a guess that many splinter hands are undervalued and not "splintered" simply because responder is relying only on high card points as a standard. If you are looking for a finite answer in high card points, it is not there. Surely a hand such as AKxx,KJxx,Qxxx,x merits a splinter bid opposite either a spade opening bid. On the other hand I would also splinter with AQxxx,Kxx,xxxxx,void.. Developing bridge players hate the word, but is is "Judgement."
Before going on I should explain why there is an upper limitation on the bid. If responder's hand is 15+ points, his hand is likely larger than opener's hand and responder needs to take charge and become the captain of the ship. Instead of using a splinter bid, use Jacoby 2 NT and conduct your own investigation. If you are headed for slam, there will be an opportunity to cue bid your shortness later.
3. Most authorities will advise not splintering if your singleton is an Ace. Others extend that to a single King as well. Visualize that opener is trying to evaluate his hand after you splinter. He does this by trying to develop a sense of how much duplication of values exists is in the suit in which responder has shortness. An ideal hand for opener is to have 3 small cards in the short suit. That means that all of opener's high card points are in the other three suits. High card points in the other suits are called "working points." In my two responder hands shown above, the AKQJ of clubs are "wasted values" since they will take no tricks. For opener and his partner the deck has now shrunk to 30 high card points. If they have 26 of those 30 working points, they may have a small slam and not just game. The less opener has in values in the splintered suit, the stronger the value of his hand.
On the other hand, if opener has KQxx in the short suit or QJxx, he will discount his hand thinking that those points are wasted values. You can trump 2's and 3's just as easily as King's and Queen's. I think it easy to see if responder has the Ace or King as his splinter, he may have led opener to the wrong analysis. In fact, opener's subordinate honors will be very useful opposite either of the holdings that I cited.
4. Should you splinter if you have a good a good outside 5 card suit? Assume you hold Jxxx, Kxx, x, AQJxx and partner opens 1 spade. (Please don't tell me that I don't have enough points to splinter). World Champion Mike Lawrence tells us to show the source of tricks by bidding 2 clubs and then show the support and distribution later if there is space. Marty Bergen, on the other hand, would bid 4 diamonds showing the splinter. In his mind there is nothing as important as telling partner immediately that you have four card support and shortness in diamonds. Although I like Mike's approach, you are going to find that in some auctions it is hard to get three separate messages to partner in the space that you have. If you are not going to splinter, there needs to be a partnership agreement as to how the auction should proceed. Hopefully you are playing 2/1 so that a 2 club response would be a game force. It doesn't matter what suit opener bids next, but say it is 2 spades. Since the auction is already in a game force, and you can show a diamond suit with a bid of 3 diamonds, so a bid of 4 diamonds should be a splinter. Does your partner understand that? I like the advice of one writer: "If a bid at one level lower would be forcing, then a bid of a new suit at a higher level is a splinter."
5. Opener may also use splinter bids on his first rebid. The bidding sequence might be 1c/1h/4d, showing four card support for hearts and a single or void in diamonds. In this sequence opener must have a very good hand with strong hearts support since all partner has promised is 4 nondescript hearts and 6 hcps. Since responder is still an unlimited hand, opener wants to invite to slam if responder has extra values. A more likely scenario is a 2/1 sequence like 1h/2c/3d showing 4 clubs and a single or void in diamonds. Why would 3 diamonds be a splinter? Because we are already in a game force and a diamond suit could have been shown by a bid of 2 diamonds. Since we know that responder has at least an opening hand, the values for showing a splinter can be reduced.
6. Partner has splinter on his first response. I have a minimum hand. I simply bid 4 of the major warning partner of my limitations. Responder is now the captain of the hand. If I am interested in exploring slam, I must make an up-the-line control showing bid in some other suit.
7. As usual, you need to know when "splinters" are "on" or "off." The classic rule has been that they are "on" over doubles and "off" if there is an overcall or if partner is a passed hand. If I were to alter that rule, I would have splinters "on" by a passed hand. Since I am aggressive about splinters, I can visualize hand that I might splinter with that I would not open. (J10xxx, x, KQJx, Kxx). When partner responds 2 hearts, what is your rebid? If partner has as much as AKxxx, xxxx, Ax, Qx we will make 4 spades. On the other hand, if he has AKxxx. A, Axxxx, Qx, six spades cannot be stopped. When you think about it, why would a passed hand need a splinter level response if it were not a splinter?
Are splinters new? Heavens no. Dorothy Hayden Truscott (herself a multiple champion) came up with them decades ago. They have simply withstood the test of time because in the end, shape always tells.
1. While some partnerships splinter in all four suits as well as no trump, your life will be simpler if you limit your splinter bids to responses to major suits.
3. The support requirement for a major suit splinter is 4 or more cards in the major suit. The main thrust of splinters is to inform opener of your shortness so that he will know that he can trump losers from his hand in your short suit. Since opener may have 3 or more losers in the suit that need to be ruffed, a minimum of 4 trump is required.
2. Most authors recommend a hand in the range of 11-14 points. This is a nice guideline, but in reality what you really need is a hand that you want to play in game against a minimum opener. In making that analysis you should take into account you that already have a 9 card fit and favorable distribution (the single or void). Since we are not going to play this hand in no trump, 25-26 high card points are not required. Shape and fit will be more telling, and I would venture a guess that many splinter hands are undervalued and not "splintered" simply because responder is relying only on high card points as a standard. If you are looking for a finite answer in high card points, it is not there. Surely a hand such as AKxx,KJxx,Qxxx,x merits a splinter bid opposite either a spade opening bid. On the other hand I would also splinter with AQxxx,Kxx,xxxxx,void.. Developing bridge players hate the word, but is is "Judgement."
Before going on I should explain why there is an upper limitation on the bid. If responder's hand is 15+ points, his hand is likely larger than opener's hand and responder needs to take charge and become the captain of the ship. Instead of using a splinter bid, use Jacoby 2 NT and conduct your own investigation. If you are headed for slam, there will be an opportunity to cue bid your shortness later.
3. Most authorities will advise not splintering if your singleton is an Ace. Others extend that to a single King as well. Visualize that opener is trying to evaluate his hand after you splinter. He does this by trying to develop a sense of how much duplication of values exists is in the suit in which responder has shortness. An ideal hand for opener is to have 3 small cards in the short suit. That means that all of opener's high card points are in the other three suits. High card points in the other suits are called "working points." In my two responder hands shown above, the AKQJ of clubs are "wasted values" since they will take no tricks. For opener and his partner the deck has now shrunk to 30 high card points. If they have 26 of those 30 working points, they may have a small slam and not just game. The less opener has in values in the splintered suit, the stronger the value of his hand.
On the other hand, if opener has KQxx in the short suit or QJxx, he will discount his hand thinking that those points are wasted values. You can trump 2's and 3's just as easily as King's and Queen's. I think it easy to see if responder has the Ace or King as his splinter, he may have led opener to the wrong analysis. In fact, opener's subordinate honors will be very useful opposite either of the holdings that I cited.
4. Should you splinter if you have a good a good outside 5 card suit? Assume you hold Jxxx, Kxx, x, AQJxx and partner opens 1 spade. (Please don't tell me that I don't have enough points to splinter). World Champion Mike Lawrence tells us to show the source of tricks by bidding 2 clubs and then show the support and distribution later if there is space. Marty Bergen, on the other hand, would bid 4 diamonds showing the splinter. In his mind there is nothing as important as telling partner immediately that you have four card support and shortness in diamonds. Although I like Mike's approach, you are going to find that in some auctions it is hard to get three separate messages to partner in the space that you have. If you are not going to splinter, there needs to be a partnership agreement as to how the auction should proceed. Hopefully you are playing 2/1 so that a 2 club response would be a game force. It doesn't matter what suit opener bids next, but say it is 2 spades. Since the auction is already in a game force, and you can show a diamond suit with a bid of 3 diamonds, so a bid of 4 diamonds should be a splinter. Does your partner understand that? I like the advice of one writer: "If a bid at one level lower would be forcing, then a bid of a new suit at a higher level is a splinter."
5. Opener may also use splinter bids on his first rebid. The bidding sequence might be 1c/1h/4d, showing four card support for hearts and a single or void in diamonds. In this sequence opener must have a very good hand with strong hearts support since all partner has promised is 4 nondescript hearts and 6 hcps. Since responder is still an unlimited hand, opener wants to invite to slam if responder has extra values. A more likely scenario is a 2/1 sequence like 1h/2c/3d showing 4 clubs and a single or void in diamonds. Why would 3 diamonds be a splinter? Because we are already in a game force and a diamond suit could have been shown by a bid of 2 diamonds. Since we know that responder has at least an opening hand, the values for showing a splinter can be reduced.
6. Partner has splinter on his first response. I have a minimum hand. I simply bid 4 of the major warning partner of my limitations. Responder is now the captain of the hand. If I am interested in exploring slam, I must make an up-the-line control showing bid in some other suit.
7. As usual, you need to know when "splinters" are "on" or "off." The classic rule has been that they are "on" over doubles and "off" if there is an overcall or if partner is a passed hand. If I were to alter that rule, I would have splinters "on" by a passed hand. Since I am aggressive about splinters, I can visualize hand that I might splinter with that I would not open. (J10xxx, x, KQJx, Kxx). When partner responds 2 hearts, what is your rebid? If partner has as much as AKxxx, xxxx, Ax, Qx we will make 4 spades. On the other hand, if he has AKxxx. A, Axxxx, Qx, six spades cannot be stopped. When you think about it, why would a passed hand need a splinter level response if it were not a splinter?
Are splinters new? Heavens no. Dorothy Hayden Truscott (herself a multiple champion) came up with them decades ago. They have simply withstood the test of time because in the end, shape always tells.
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
More Meckstroth
This is a continuation of my last post summarizing Jeff Meckstroth's remarks made at Orlando. One caveat, it has now been almost a week since I attended his presentation and I did not take concurrent notes, so my answers definately tend to paraphrase what I have cleaned from the notes that I recorded after the presentation.
1. If you make a take out double over over a minor suit opener, do you need to have 3 or more card support for the opposite minor? Personally, I would make a take-out double over a minor suit opening as long as I have 2 cards in the opposite minor and at least 3-3 in both majors, So with a club opening holding an opening hand and 3-4-2-4 distribution, I make a take-out double. Partner should know that I am not interested in hearing about his diamond suit, but if he bids diamonds we simply play it there. Finding a major suit fit holds out too many rewards to remain silent.
2. What do you think about minor suit overcalls? I don't!! If I can find any other bid to help me find a major suit, I will make it. This explains my answer to the first question and my willingness to make take out doubles that would be considered by some to be "off-shape."
3. If you have some cards, what action do you take opposite partner's take out double? If I have 9 points and some shape I will make a jump bid. If the opening bid is a minor and I have 4-4 in the majors, I will cue bid opener's minor suit.
4. If partner opens a minor and my right hand opponent overcalls a minor, what action should I take if I am 5-4 or 4-5 in the majors? I recommend a negative double to immediately describe your holding in both majors. If you try to bid out both suits, most likely one suit will get lost in the auction. Please note that any minor-minor-double bidding sequence such as you describe does guarantee at least 4-4 in both majors.
5. What do you think of Bergen Raises and does it make a difference which style you use? I think Bergen raises showing 4 card support for partner's major are perfectly acceptable and it doesn't make much difference which of the two styles you use. I personally do not use Bergen raises, but rather the old fashioned jump raise to show a limit raise hand. I do not feel that I need the weak pre-emtive raise.
6. Do you use 4th suit forcing? It is in my bidding system, but it does not get much use if I am playing 2/1 game force. I do play that in a bidding sequence 1c/1d/1h/1s, the one spade bid is forcing to game.
7. Should we use "splinter" bids? A resounding Yes! And, they should take precedence over other support showing bids, so don't use Bergen if you have a 4 card limit raise with shortness. Shape showing bids are essential to bidding close games and slams. One of the benefits of 2/1 is that it permits lower level splinter raises by opener on the first rebid. After a 2/1 response, any jump in a new suit should show support for responder's bid suit and shortness in the suit rebid by opener.
8. What sort of signals and discards do you recommend? Something that you and partner can agree on and remember. I use "upside down count and atitude" reversing the standard sequencing, but if you are not comfortable with that, standard signals showing attitude as the primary will work just as well. As for discards, I do not like dual signal discards such as "odd-even" or "lavinthal." Dual message signals tend to carry a defined messaage on each discard, and there is no clear way to be neutral and leave it to partner to figure out. Often leaving it to partner's judgment will lead to the correct defense. Top players do not use dual message discards.
9. What do you think about weak 2 bids? I think any time that you can take up opponent's bidding space you should do so. This is particularly true in match points. Contrary to popular thinking, I view the weak 2 diamond bid as very useful. My weak 2 bids non-vulnerable guarantee only that I am still awake. When you are vulnerable, stepping in requires more thought and analysis, but it still probably in the "more likely than not" category. Weak 2 bids definately need to be discussed with partner.
So Speaks Jeff Meckstroth. As you can see it was a rich 30 minute experience.
1. If you make a take out double over over a minor suit opener, do you need to have 3 or more card support for the opposite minor? Personally, I would make a take-out double over a minor suit opening as long as I have 2 cards in the opposite minor and at least 3-3 in both majors, So with a club opening holding an opening hand and 3-4-2-4 distribution, I make a take-out double. Partner should know that I am not interested in hearing about his diamond suit, but if he bids diamonds we simply play it there. Finding a major suit fit holds out too many rewards to remain silent.
2. What do you think about minor suit overcalls? I don't!! If I can find any other bid to help me find a major suit, I will make it. This explains my answer to the first question and my willingness to make take out doubles that would be considered by some to be "off-shape."
3. If you have some cards, what action do you take opposite partner's take out double? If I have 9 points and some shape I will make a jump bid. If the opening bid is a minor and I have 4-4 in the majors, I will cue bid opener's minor suit.
4. If partner opens a minor and my right hand opponent overcalls a minor, what action should I take if I am 5-4 or 4-5 in the majors? I recommend a negative double to immediately describe your holding in both majors. If you try to bid out both suits, most likely one suit will get lost in the auction. Please note that any minor-minor-double bidding sequence such as you describe does guarantee at least 4-4 in both majors.
5. What do you think of Bergen Raises and does it make a difference which style you use? I think Bergen raises showing 4 card support for partner's major are perfectly acceptable and it doesn't make much difference which of the two styles you use. I personally do not use Bergen raises, but rather the old fashioned jump raise to show a limit raise hand. I do not feel that I need the weak pre-emtive raise.
6. Do you use 4th suit forcing? It is in my bidding system, but it does not get much use if I am playing 2/1 game force. I do play that in a bidding sequence 1c/1d/1h/1s, the one spade bid is forcing to game.
7. Should we use "splinter" bids? A resounding Yes! And, they should take precedence over other support showing bids, so don't use Bergen if you have a 4 card limit raise with shortness. Shape showing bids are essential to bidding close games and slams. One of the benefits of 2/1 is that it permits lower level splinter raises by opener on the first rebid. After a 2/1 response, any jump in a new suit should show support for responder's bid suit and shortness in the suit rebid by opener.
8. What sort of signals and discards do you recommend? Something that you and partner can agree on and remember. I use "upside down count and atitude" reversing the standard sequencing, but if you are not comfortable with that, standard signals showing attitude as the primary will work just as well. As for discards, I do not like dual signal discards such as "odd-even" or "lavinthal." Dual message signals tend to carry a defined messaage on each discard, and there is no clear way to be neutral and leave it to partner to figure out. Often leaving it to partner's judgment will lead to the correct defense. Top players do not use dual message discards.
9. What do you think about weak 2 bids? I think any time that you can take up opponent's bidding space you should do so. This is particularly true in match points. Contrary to popular thinking, I view the weak 2 diamond bid as very useful. My weak 2 bids non-vulnerable guarantee only that I am still awake. When you are vulnerable, stepping in requires more thought and analysis, but it still probably in the "more likely than not" category. Weak 2 bids definately need to be discussed with partner.
So Speaks Jeff Meckstroth. As you can see it was a rich 30 minute experience.
Monday, January 8, 2007
Jeff Meckstroth Speaks (Part I)
The highlight of the Orlando Regional for me was the opportunity to hear Jeff Meckstroth talk about bridge for 30 minutes. The presentation was billed as an Intermediate/Novice event, but any time you can hear one of the top 5 bridge professionals in the world talk about his chosen profession, it is a rare treat. Rather than lecture, it was more like a group discussion with questions and answers. All the answers were based on the advice that he would give to non-professionals, people like his audience. Rather than have one long post, I will divided this into two parts, starting with his most basic comments and moving more into Intermediate territory in the next post.
1. What bidding system should we be playing? Although Jeff and his partner Eric Rodwell, play a very high octane form of Precision co-developed by Rodwell and Paul Soloway, he strongly recommended that for most non-professionals 2/1 game force is the way to go, especially for those playing team games. He underscored the importance of having game force bids available so as to eliminate any concern about being passed out short of game and to permit accurate low level bidding to explore each slam opportunity. Asked whether there should be any stopping point short of game, he stated emphatically NO! He said that a game would not always be makeable, but the element of not having to worry about being passed out short of game made up for it.
2. How about weak no trump openers? Jeff said that he has tried weak no trump openers, but his preference is to have a minimum of at least a good 14 points.The reason he dislikes weak no trump openers is that it makes it more difficult to find suit fits at lower levels. He noted that weak no trump openers do have a preemptive value, but in balance he felt the price you pay is not worth it.
3. When should you open hands that contain a 5 card major at one no trump instead of one of the major? Anytime you have a hand that is 5332 and it doesn't matter where the doubleton is! Opening all hands that meet this criteria at one no trump will save a lot of rebid headaches.
4. What defensive bidding system should we be using when opponents open one no trump?
If opponents are using strong no trump openers Jeff uses the "Meckwell" defense:
(a) 2 clubs shows clubs and a major
(b) 2 diamonds shows diamonds and a major
(c) 2 hearts and 2 spades are natural
(d) Double is a relay to 2 clubs to show a long minor or both majors
If opponents are using weak no trump openers, it is important to retain double as a value showing bid. The defense Jeff uses is:
(a)2 clubs shows spades and a rounded suit (hearts or clubs)
(b) 2 diamonds shows diamonds and a major
(c) 2 hearts and 2 spades are natural
(d) 2NT shows a single suit in a minor -relay to 3 clubs
(e) Double shows equal value
5. If opponents are playing Precision and open one club (16+ hcps), what sort of defensive bids should be used? Jeff recommends the "Mathe" system in the direct seat:
(a) The suit bids of 1 diamond through 2 clubs are all natural.
(b) The bid of 1 No Trump shows both minors
(c) Double shows both majors
6. If you open 1 no trump with a 5 card major, should you use Puppet Stayman (a 2 club inquiry by responder asking opener if he has a 5 card major)? Jeff did not seem to be enthusiastic about Puppet Stayman. He said that the two level responses to one no trump openers are too important to sacrifice for Puppet Stayman and that if we are going to use it, to work it into a system of 3 level responses. Although he did not say so, I assume that he would also not use it over two no trump openers.
Stay tuned for part 2!
1. What bidding system should we be playing? Although Jeff and his partner Eric Rodwell, play a very high octane form of Precision co-developed by Rodwell and Paul Soloway, he strongly recommended that for most non-professionals 2/1 game force is the way to go, especially for those playing team games. He underscored the importance of having game force bids available so as to eliminate any concern about being passed out short of game and to permit accurate low level bidding to explore each slam opportunity. Asked whether there should be any stopping point short of game, he stated emphatically NO! He said that a game would not always be makeable, but the element of not having to worry about being passed out short of game made up for it.
2. How about weak no trump openers? Jeff said that he has tried weak no trump openers, but his preference is to have a minimum of at least a good 14 points.The reason he dislikes weak no trump openers is that it makes it more difficult to find suit fits at lower levels. He noted that weak no trump openers do have a preemptive value, but in balance he felt the price you pay is not worth it.
3. When should you open hands that contain a 5 card major at one no trump instead of one of the major? Anytime you have a hand that is 5332 and it doesn't matter where the doubleton is! Opening all hands that meet this criteria at one no trump will save a lot of rebid headaches.
4. What defensive bidding system should we be using when opponents open one no trump?
If opponents are using strong no trump openers Jeff uses the "Meckwell" defense:
(a) 2 clubs shows clubs and a major
(b) 2 diamonds shows diamonds and a major
(c) 2 hearts and 2 spades are natural
(d) Double is a relay to 2 clubs to show a long minor or both majors
If opponents are using weak no trump openers, it is important to retain double as a value showing bid. The defense Jeff uses is:
(a)2 clubs shows spades and a rounded suit (hearts or clubs)
(b) 2 diamonds shows diamonds and a major
(c) 2 hearts and 2 spades are natural
(d) 2NT shows a single suit in a minor -relay to 3 clubs
(e) Double shows equal value
5. If opponents are playing Precision and open one club (16+ hcps), what sort of defensive bids should be used? Jeff recommends the "Mathe" system in the direct seat:
(a) The suit bids of 1 diamond through 2 clubs are all natural.
(b) The bid of 1 No Trump shows both minors
(c) Double shows both majors
6. If you open 1 no trump with a 5 card major, should you use Puppet Stayman (a 2 club inquiry by responder asking opener if he has a 5 card major)? Jeff did not seem to be enthusiastic about Puppet Stayman. He said that the two level responses to one no trump openers are too important to sacrifice for Puppet Stayman and that if we are going to use it, to work it into a system of 3 level responses. Although he did not say so, I assume that he would also not use it over two no trump openers.
Stay tuned for part 2!
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